\ LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, | 



Me/f 



..IRs*. 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 

;1 V3 _ S 



.4 COMPLETE SHIES 



II 



EM.4NSH 



) 



Bv ¥. H. ROWLAND, 



SMITUFIELD, JOHNSTON COD^TY, N, t 



RALEIGH: 

NICHOLS i GORMAN, BOOK AND JOB PRINTERS. 

1871. 



6 

A COMPLETE SYSTEM 



IIAIIJP, 



By ¥. H. ROWLAND. 



SMITHHELD, JOHNSTON COUNTY, I 



RALEIGH: 

NICHOLS <fe GORMAN, BOOK AND JOB PRINTERS. 
1871. 






Entered according to act of Congress, 
in the year 1871, by W. H. Boivland, in 
the office of the Librarian of Congress, at 
Washington. 



^ 



HORSEMANSHIP. 



For the more efficient instruction of classes I 
give a brief sketch of my system of Horsemanship, 
iirst considering the means of controlling and 
managing, and afterwards the specialties. 

It is necessary for any man, wishing to handle 
horses successfully, to be self possessed, determin- 
ed, and to give some attention to the horse's natural 
habits and disposition. I do not think it is claim- 
ing too much for this system to say, by its use, any 
horse may be broke (regardless of his being pre- 
viously spoiled) so as to make him perfectly do- 
cile and safe, even for a family horse. 

In dealing with this plan -you are not wasting 
your time with a mysterious trick, with which so 
many are humbugged by unprincipled men, who 
have nothing good at heart for either horse or 
man, but merely want ill-gained dollars. In this 
place, you will find the principle of a universally 
applicable system for the better training of horses 
for man's use, producing such matchless docility 
as has not before been found. The three funda- 
mental principles of this theory are, first, let kind- 
nes run through all your actions towards the 
horse, secondly, prudently associate mastery with 
kindness by proper means, (see "means of control- 
ing" page 4 ) third, appeal properly to the horse's 
understanding, approving right, and rebuking 
wrong. 

Although the horse possesses some faculties su- 
perior to man, yet he is deficient in reasoning 
powers, consequently he cannot associate past and 



present things, know right from wrong, or decide 
what he should or should not do, yet he is natur- 
ally of a kind disposition, as evidenced by his at- 
tachment for his kind keeper. He has no thought 
of disobedience, except by the pernicious impru- 
dence of violating the laws of his nature, in which 
case lie is not in fault, but the violator. You will 
hereinafter learn, that he may be taught to per- 
fectly submit to anything, however odious it may 
have been to him at first. 



Means* ©f Controlling. 

As nature has given the horse more physical pow- 
er than man, it" behooves us to take advantage of 
rational art, to successfully control him and make 
him subservient to our will, for which, Rowland 
progressively doubles his power, by the mechani- 
cal principle of pulleys, and bringing the horse's 
power against himself so that it teaches him an 
unconditional submission to man's will, and to 
entirely depend on whatever means man may 
adopt to direct his actions. This is done in such 
a way, as to be less injurious to the horse than any 
yet known, and entirely without danger, in ex- 
pert hands, to either horse or man. 

This is not dependent on the strong arm for 
success, as sufficient means are given to enable a 
delicate lady, or small boy, to control the nmt 
vicious horse and make him pefectly docile. 

You will here find the means classified : 

Rope No. 1 . Make a loop in the end of a rope ; 
draw the rope through and make a slip noose large 
enough to go over the head, letting the rope pass 
up from the loop on the off side of the neck, and 
down on the near side, through loop, which will 
be on the jaw. Draw this rope from behind, and 
you readily discover your increased power, by the 



top of the neck serving as first pulley (doubling 
vour power) and the loop around the jaw as the 
second pulley, giving you the power of four men, 
less the friction. 

Rope No. 2. Tie one end of a rope around, the 
horse's neck, in a knot that will not slip, (agent 
•or instructor will illustrate) pass it through his 
mouth and back over the rope around his neck, 
and draw on the rope from front, and you discover 
the same power as in rope No. 1, but more con- 
trolling, owin^ to the way in which it carries up 
the horse's mouth and gags him. ~ In this the 
mouth serves as first pulley, the rope around the 
neck as second, giving quadruple power. 

Rope No. 3. Make a loop in the end of a rope ; 
draw it through and make a loop as in rope No. 1 ; 
carry it over the head in such a way that the loop 
will be at the left ear, from which the rope will 
pass down off the side of the head, through the 
mouth, up the near side, through the loop. This 
looses no power by drawing behind, or from be- 
hind, in front or to the side. Top of head serves 
as first pulley, mouth as second, and loop as third ; 
doubling the power of first and second, or giving 
eight fold power, less the friction. Diminish the 
friction and you will increase your power, for 
which Rowland introduces a pulley, made by weld- 
ing two iron plates at one end, through which drill 
a hole to admit a rope, set out the plates, between 
which you will securely rivit a horn or lignumvitae 
wheel to serve as the pulley. Be sure that your 
wheel plays free and easy. One of these pulleys 
may be used instead of loop in rope No. 3, and is 
sufficient to control most of the, said to be, bad 
horses. 

Rope No. 4. By placing the last named rope on 
the horse's head, in such a way that the pulleys 
will be at the left corner of his mouth, passing 
through and up the off side of the head, over the 
crown and down through the pulleys at left corner 



i> 



of mouth, up through pulley by left ear, suspended 
by a short rope tied in at right ear, which doubles 
the last power, giving you the power of sixteen 
men, less the friction. 

Rope No. 5. — Or Rowland's Matchless Hal- 
ter. This is made by tying a pulley and an inch 
ring in the end of a rope which will work at the 
left corner of mouth, the rope passing through the 
mouth, up the side of head, over the corner of left 
ear, where will hang a pulley ; at the right ear, 
one end of a short rope will be tied in, and to the 
other will hang a pulley behind the left ear. A 
long rope completes the material. By tying the 
end of the long rope in the ring at the mouth, and 
passing it through the front pulley at ear, you 
have the power of eight men, less the friction. 
By tying the end of the long rope in the front 
pulley at ear, and passing it through the pulley at 
mouth and through the back pulley behind the ear, 
you have the power of sixteen men, less the fric- 
tion. Bring another pulley into play, and you 
double this power which is easily done by fasten- 
ing the end of the long rope to ring at mouth, 
passing up through the front pulley at ear, giving 
the power of thirty-two men, less the friction. 

In connection with the above, I frequently use to 
advantage, means which I term bringing the horse's 
power against himself. Sometimes I strap up one 
fore-foot and hop him around, but do not approve 
of this, since it wearies the horse to bring him to 
what you want, but always prefer using such means 
as will rebuke error and not worry, that the horse 
may be taught there is a penalty for every wrong, 
as well as a reward for right actions ; thus you 
teach him, unconditionally, what he must or must 
not do, without breaking his spirits. Long foot 
straps work charmingly. If you are scarce of help, 
you may use one short strap with which you will 
buckle up a fore-foot, apply the long strap to the 
other around the pastern, passing through the ring- 



on surcingle, at withers or breast, with which you 
rebuke wrong, by taking his fore-feet from him and 
bring him to his knees and keep him there until 
he is controlled or submits, when you will caress- 
and fondle with him. Thus you see he is taught 
docility, as well as rebuked for bad conduct. When 
both long foot straps are used, they should each, 
be held by an assistant. If this is not sufficient to 
make him unconditionally submit to any thing you 
wish, you may fasten a wide, strong leather strap, 
through a ring around his hind pastern, tying a 
strong rope around his neck; or better, to the 
breast of a strong collar, pass it between his fore- 
legs and back through the ring at hind-foot, then 
held in front of the animal by an assistant. When 
you wish to rebuke error, and control, have three 
feet taken from him simultaneously, bring him 
down and force him to stay down until he is quiet 
and gives up : At that time be very kind and cares- 
sing, trying to soothe and quiet his excitement ; 
now gradually bring the cause of his bad conduct 
to bear, and convince him there is no cause for re- 
sistance, that is, it will not hurt him. Also, that 
he has no choice in the matter whatever, that his 
safety is in submitting, and danger in resisting. 

This, in connection with the pulleys, will con- 
trol anything in the shape of the horse, but I will 
suggest one more process by which the horse may 
control himself. . Apply hock straps ; take a strong 
rope and put the centre in the horse's mouth, passing 
it through each ring of the bridle bit, down between 
the fore-legs above the surcingle; draw tight and 
make fast to ring of hock straps. Your means are 
great, and you should be careful not to abuse your 
faithful servant, but merely use them to control, 
that you may, through kindness, teach the ani- 
mal what you require of him. 



Classification. 

For ease and convenience of study tlie traits in 
the disposition of different horses should be classi- 
fied. This might be carried to a considerable ex- 
tent, but I will merely take up the general classi- 
fication of the wild, the vicious and the tricky horses, 
making three grand heads, from which we will 
handle and unconditionally control the horse. It 
should be your purpose in the wild horse, to re- 
move fear and establish confidence ; in the vicious 
horse, to gain the mastery, and in the tricky horse, 
to meet him in the attempt and make the act punish. 



The Wild Hor*e. 

"We will include all horses under this head, where 
fear exists. The horse is afraid because he expects 
to be hurt, hence the necessity of removing fear — 
of convincing the animal that there is no hurt for 
him; then, by gradually progressive means, estab- 
lish a confidence and teach him what you intend 
requiring of him. Always let kindness have a 
prominent feature in your spirit of action toward 
him and establish a love for you, as this is one of 
the controlling passions and will materially facili- 
tate your successfully handling this noble and af- 
fectionate animal. Accustom him to such objects 
as you wish him to submit to, for instance if there 
is a log or stump, or any other object of fear where 
you wish him to pass (that he may imagine to be 
some ferocious wild beast ready to pounce upon 
him) take him to it and let him examine it with 
his nose, then he will care nothing more for it. 
Accustom him to harness* the vehicle,* &c.,* until 
he cares no more for the touch of them than the 
manger where he eats. This should be done with 
a quiet firmness, without hurry or passion, &c, &c. 

*^ee — Taking out cringes. 



Calliaigr tlie Colt In. 

Go to the pasture and walk around the whole 
herd quietly, at such a distance as not to cause 
them to scare or run, then approach them very 
slowly, and if they seem frightened, hold on until 
they become quiet, so as not to make them run be- 
fore you are near enough to drive them in the di- 
rection you want them to go. "When you begin to 

drive, do not flourish your arms and , but 

quietly follow after them leaving the direction free 
you wish them to take. Thus, taking the advan- 
tage of their wild nature and ignorance, you will 
get them into the pound as easily as the hunter 
drives the quails into his net, for if they have al- 
ways run in a pasture uncared for, (as many horses 
do in prairie countries and on large plantations,) 
there is no reason why they should not be as wild 
as the stag or the sportman's bird, and require the 
same gentle means if you want to get them with- 
out trouble. When, by the gentle means above 
described, you have the colt in the pound or lot 
in which is a roomy stall, the next step will be 



Stabling the Colt. 

This should be done as quietly as possible, so as 
not to excite suspicion in the horse, of any danger 
befalling him. The best way to do this, is first 
to lead a broke horse into the stall and hitch him ; 
then quietly walk round the colt and let him walk 
in of his own accord. Be extremely slow and de- 
liberate in all your movements, for one wrong 
move may frighten the horse, and make him think 
it necessary to escape at all hazards, for the safety 
of his life, and thus make two hour's work of a 
ten minutes job, and this would be entirely un- 
necessary and your own fault ; for he will not run 



10 



unless you run after him, nor try to break away 
unless you try to force him into measures. If he 
does not see the way at once, and is a little fright- 
ful about going in, do not undertake to drive, but 
give him a little less room outside by quietly 
closing in around him, and he will go into the 
stall in search of more room. Do not raise your 
arms, but let them quietly hang to your side, for 
you might as well raise a club; the horse has 
never studied anatomy, and knows not but they 
will unhinge and fly at him. If he attempts to 
turn back, do not run, but walk quietly before 
him. If he gets past you, encircle him again in 
the same quiet manner, and he will soon find you 
are not going to hurt him ; then you can walk so 
close around him that he will go into the stall for 
more room, and to get further from you. As 
soon as he is in, remove the quiet horse and shut 
the door; this will be his first motion of confine- 
ment, not knowing how he got into such a place, 
nor how to get out. That he may take it as 
quietly as possible, see that the stall and enclo- 
sure are entirely free from dogs, chickens, or any- 
thing else that might give him fright or otherwise 
annoy him. Give him a few ears of corn, and let 
him remain alone awhile, to examine his apartment 
and become reconciled to his confinement. While 
the horse is eating his corn, &c, examine your 
tricks carefully; see that everything is in readi- 
ness ; also reflect upon the best mode of operation, 
for in home breaking it is highly necessary for you 
to be governed by some system in every case. I 
would do Mr. Powell injustice were I not to say, 
the system above described is derived from the 
principles of his mode practiced many years ago. 



The flm Handling of the Colt. 

You will enter the enclosure with whip in hand,. 



11 



the horse shys to the farthest point from you, be- 
cause he is afraid of being hurt, now were yon to 
crowd on the animal at this moment of his dis- 
tress, from confinement and your presence, he 
would offer resistance as a means of self defense, 
and thus you would develop the vicious part of 
his nature. But entering you should remain per- 
fectly quiet, until he!becomes so, and looks steadily 
at you ; then you should commence some graceful 
movement with the whip, both to convince the 
horse that they (motions) do no inflict pain and 
to attract his attention to the whip. At first he 
winces at each motion of the whip, but soon be- 
comes used to it and perfectly quiet, now his at- 
tention is riveted on the whip, and does not no- 
tice your locomotive powers, as you steadily ap- 
proach him ; this should be done in a very slow and 
quiet manner ; take advantage of the peculiarities 
of his nature (i. e, he cannot notice but one thing 
at a time) and approach him while you keep his 
attention fixed on the whip by its motion. Ap- 
proach slowly as above directed. Should he attempt 
an escape, stop until he is again quiet and you have 
his attention, when you will approach as at first 
with whip in motion &c. Should he attempt re- 
sistance or threaten, by backing his ears, turning his 
heels and slashing his tail, ply your whip fiercely 
a few licks about his legs and make him have 
proper regard for man's presence ; then proceed 
as directed until you are near enough to drop the 
whip to his nose for examination, this being his 
natural organ for that office ; when he is satisfied 
with his examination, you will commence caress- 
ing him with soft pats of the whip about the nose, 
face, jaw, neck, body and legs, frequently passing 
back to the head proceeding a little further each 
time, until he cares nothing for the touch of the whip 
on any part of him ; thus you have, to a great ex- 
tent gained a grand point, that is, removing the 
fear of touch. Keep in mind your system, your 



12 



purpose and the best mode of attaining the latter. 
Approach the animal, and accustom him to the 
actual touch of the hand; to do this you must di- 
vert his attention by rubbing his back, your left 
hand being raised. The nearer your approach the 
horse, the stiffer will be your whip, and the harder 
you can rub, by which you will keep his attention 
concentrated to the point on his back, (the horse 
cannot think of but one thing at a time) as you 
approach. When your are in reach, put your 
hand slightly against his shoulder, and gently stroke 
the way the hair lies. Caress, very fondly, in the 
same gradual progressive manner as with the whip, 
until you have handled him all over. If one part 
is more ticklish than another, give that more at- 
tention. There is no reason why a man may not 
carelessly approach a horse from behind as well 
as in front, if you would give both ends the same 
attention. Always favor every inclination of the 
horse to smell or touch you with his nose. It is 
better here, as elsewhere, to make your lesson 
short, if you can, quit off with every thing favoring 
your success. There are too many horses only broke 
at one corner who will not allow you to approach 
them any where else, than perhaps, -the left shoulder. 
You will do well to break yours all round. Talk 
to your horse while thus handling, and familiar- 
ize him to the sound of your voice. This is not 
so essential at first, but I generally begin in hand- 
ling his feet, saying. " hold up your foot," at the 
same time lifting it up with the hand. Proceed 
to another in the same w ; ,y, and so on until you 
are around. Soon the horse would suffer you to 
take up his feci in your arms. This is not by 
drugs ; it is no charm, no magnetism, or galvanism, 
but merely taking away the fear the horse generally 
has of man, and familiarizing him with his master. 
The horse experiences a degree of pleasure from 
this handling, as an evidence of which, he soon 
shows great marks of attachment for his master. 



13 



Also, another evidence is, after two or three hand- 
lings of this sort, you may turn him out and he 
will approach you any where. You have now re- 
moved fear and established confidence, which 
brings the wild horse where he is willing to re- 
ceive instruction ; it yet remains for you to in- 
struct him in the thlng3 he is required to do. 
Before begining this new task, you should take 
into consideration, that the horse has no knowledge 
of language ; that all sounds are void and meaning- 
less to his understanding, only so far as you teach 
him to associate an action with a word. To do 
this, you should do someting in connection with 
the command, to cause the horse to do what you 
wish him, in other words to obey. 

At first, this should be done in such a way that 
the horse will not hold you responsible for his 
troubles, that is, let the little punishment, or cause 
of obeying, come from the farthest point from you, 
thus, drop back to the horse' sleftf hip, with whip in 
right hand, saying "Come here, Sir," "Come 
here, boy," "Come here, Pussy," on calling his 
name, always repeating the same word with a quiet 
steady gentle tone. And do not have two words for 
the same action nor require two actions to the same 
word y for it would confuse the animal. Simultan- 
eously with each command, you will tap him gen- 
tly on right side of nose, not so as to produce pain, 
but merely as a torment, from which he instinc- 
tively turns and thus unintentionally obeys. You 
should, without delay, meet and caress him fondly, 
which approves the act. Continue these opera- 
tions until he turns well in both directions, prompt- 
ly at the word ; then you will cause him to turn to- 
you and as he turns you will step off (which places, 
you in front of the horse) and use whatever sign 
or word you wish as a signal for him to start for- 
ward. At the same time giving him a tap with 
the whip, at farthest point from you, (which is on 
rump.) It causes him to go forward, which you 



14 



will approve by caressing as when he turned to 
you. By a little practice you may have the horse 
following you anywhere without the use of bridle 
or halter. 



Bridling the Colt. 

You may now present the bridle or halter for 
his examination as you did the whip at first, you 
should then caress or rub him with it until he 
cares nothing for its being handled, on, over, or 
about him, then proceed to put it on. In this, 
stand by his left shoulder with bridle or halter in 
hand, fondle on each side of neck and head with 
it, until he will suffer it put on ; take it off and put 
it on successively several time3, observing to have 
it properly fit so as not to feel unpleasant. 



Bitting the Colt. 

Some hostlers term styling, bitting, but I shall 
use this heading in the sense of accustoming the 
colt to the use of the bit, which should be a large 
smooth bit called Snaffle bit. You should never 
try to teach the colt the use of the bit, until he is 
accustomed to its being in his mouth and will sub- 
mit to it without trying to get clear of it. You 
should bridle him without reins and leave him for 
a few minutes. When he, no longer, tries to get 
clear of it, take it off and make your lessons short. 
You will repeat this four or five times a day, until 
he is thoroughly broke to being bridled. You 
should bear in mind, everything you want to teach 
the horse, should oe commenced in such a way, as to give 
him an idea of what you want him to do, and be re- 
peated until he learns it perfectly. 



15 

Kind of Bit. 

For ordinary use a large smooth snaffle bit should 
be invariably adopted. It is not so cruel nor un- 
pleasant to the horse yet more controlling with a 
seesaw check. For Cavalry or such like purposes, 
when but one hand can be used, adopt the dragoon 
or curb bit ; for the vicious biter you may tempora- 
rily adopt the large wooden bit, advised by Mr. 
Rarey, but the pulley rope is more efficient. (See 
means page 4 to 7.) 



Teaching to Come to You. 

This you seldom do until you have used the 
horse awhile. Apply the pully rope, step off and 
bid him come to you as you nourish your whip, 
<fcc, at the same time draw on the rope. At first 
he will be apt to try to go the other way, but he 
will soon find where (i. e. close to you,) he gets 
slack : when he comes, give him something, lie is 
fond of and caress freely, repeat this until he steps 
up to you promptly at the command. If he at- 
tempts to resist, ply your whip about his legs and 
forcibly bring him to you with pulley rope ; then 
use more kindness, than you did harsh means. 



Teaching to Follow. 

When a horse has been well taught the above 
lesson, you can step a few steps from him and 
make him come to you, and as he comes, walk a 
few steps and caress ; continue, walking a little 
farther at each time, and you will soon have him 
following you any where. 



16 



Taking out the Cr!nge§. 

First, put on your pulley rope, and then com- 
mence teasing aud tickling the horse with the 
•whip ; if he resists or tries to escape, control with 
pulley rope, and continue until he does not re- 
gard it. The whip tickles and frightens him ; he 
tries to escape or resist ; you rebuke his act by 
controling with the pulley rope, and teach him to- 
submit by teaching him that the whip will not 
hurt, but something else may, (if he tries to es- 
cape) but it is at a different point from that of his 
fear. This is applicable in first harnessing or 
breaking to the vehicle, which will be considered 
under each of those heads. 



Harnessing. 

You need a heavy set of buggy gear with breech- 
ing. Let him examine it, after which you wil! 
fasten the collar and hame string, also the saddle 
girth with the breeching on the back; being in 
readiness with pulley rope and foot straps, &c, 
having previously tied the traces in breeching rings 
so as to draw tight when pushed back to place ; 
you take your position at the horse's side, with pulley 
rope in left hand, and carry the breeching back 
roughly with right hand, at the same time cause 
him to step off quickly. You have heretofore 
been teaching the horse to submit to quiet means, 
and that they would not hurt him, but now you 
wish to resort to rash ones, and make him sub- 
mit to them also : not only this, but you wish to 
get him in a splurge before teaching him his in- 
ability to escape or resist ; also to teach him he 
has no choice in what he does, but must uncon- 
ditionally submit to anything you do — that it will 
not hurt him, but something else may — that he 



17 



"has nothing to fear in submitting —that his safety 
is in submitting, and danger in resisting or trying 
to escape. These are the points to be kept in 
mind. As he jumps, rears or kicks, rebuke by- 
reminding him of the severeity of your means, i. e., 
give him a draw with pulley rope and take his 
feet from under him at once. When you see he 
is willing to give up, say "Whoa!" and com- 
mence caressing; have the assistants to pull 
roughly on the breeching ; if he submits, caress ; 
if he resists anything you do, rebuke by control- 
ling, &c. Merely control, but do not abuse your 
horse, for your means are great. If you have not 
before taught the horse to drive or be guided by 
the bit, you may now give that your attention. 



Teach the Morse to Drive. 

You will get behind the horse and draw on one 
Tein until he notices it, then you will say ' ' Come 
here, Sir," and tap the other side of nose with 
"whip, and cause him to turn. In this way you 
^will teach him to turn in both directions promptly 
at the check, then you will use whatever signal, 
you may wish him to forward by, tapping him 
behind; as he goes turn him about: when you 
"want to stop say, "Whoa," at the same time 
give him a seesaw jerk with lines which will cause 
him to stop. 

Caress, which approves and simply says to his 
imderstanding "that's right, Sir." Repeat a few 
times and he will stop promptly at the word. In 
teaching the horse you should not extend your les- 
sons so as to heat or worry, but give short and fre- 
quent ones, lest he should get in a fret, in which 
case you must quiet him before you can teach him 
anything but vicious traits. Do this, by kind 
2 



18 



means, if you can ; if not, you must subjugate him, 
teach him, he has no choice in the matter what- 
ever, but that your will is supreme. When you 
have again got control of him, or in other words 
brought him to the point, when he is willing to be 
instructed by you or to depend on you to direct his" 
acts, you will adopt your same kind, soothing man- 
ners with him, and instruct him as above directed. 
Teach the horse but one thing at a time to prevent 
confusion ; make him learn that well. You should 
break your horse leisurely before you are ready for 
his labor, that he may be ready when business re^- 
quires his service. ' 



Teacli to Flow. 

Apply your buggy harness, and have three or four 
pair of plow traces, use such means as may be nec- 
essary to control and accustom him to the touch 
and rattling of traces. In this way you will com- 
plete the job of taking out cringes from harness.. 
Buckle and hook the trace chain so it will hang* 
and knock a fore-leg at every stey; walk him & 
few steps, stop and fix one to hind-leg in same way, 
step off as before, go all round in this way and 
even fix them so they will draw at every step and 
make him submit ; caress, when he submits, and' 
control in such a manner as to make his submis- 
sion unconditional. When you have brought the- 
horse to the point, when he does not regard any- 
thing drawing around his leg, you can loose such 
as draw unpleasantly, to prevent chafing, but leave 
them to hang about his legs, take him to a furrow 
and drive him around until he has learned to walk 
properly to his work ; then you may hitch him to 
a plow, first letting it drag, then commence putting 
it in the ground gradually, i. e., but a short dis- 
tance and shallow, then raise it gradually out, re- 



19 



peat and increase until he pulls a good furrow,, 
which will be in one or two rounds. Do not plow 
your horse too long at a time until he is accus- 
tomed to labor. 



TeaeSi to Cart or ©raw. 

I generally use a sulky around a horse to take out 
cringes, but a short cart will answer every purpose. 
Pass the vehicle or cart around him, coming nearer 
each time until you touch him ( I prefer touching 
first about the shoulder and gradually working 
back.) If he attempts to escape, a few draws with 
the pully-rope will make him willing to stand ; and 
when he is quiet under its touch, caress and speak 
kindly to him. Use the cart or vehicle around 
and against him until you have taken out the 
cringes, and he will submit t ri your punching him 
roughly with it, then bring the thills over, rattle 
and thump them against him. When he no longer 
cares for it you may walk him a few steps, pushing 
the cart or vehicle yourself, frequently stopping 
him and bringing it against his rear as he stops ; 
rattle and shake it— if he scares, control, and re- 
peat uniil he will submit; then you may teach him 
to turn both directions. If he is a little stubborn, 
you may have to use some means to control him. 
Turn him short both ways, and let him learn to 
accommodate himself to the shafts ; you will keep 
him turning until he learns it perfectly. You 
should be patient in teaching the horse anything, 
but always teach him that he has no choice. Al- 
ways break a horse before you hitch him ; after 
breaking you will hitch and drive moderately, pre- 
ferring rough ground at first ; now is the time to 
teach him to draw well. The grand object is to 
teach him to start-well. You will at first load light 
and haul but a short distance. Increase your load 



20 

gradually, with an obstacle before your wheel a 
the place of starting, which should be increased as 
he will bear. Cause the horse to start quietly and 
with a steady pressure. Move his load. One hour's 
exercise in this way will give him a lesson he will 
never forget. A few repetitions each day for a 
few days will make him reliable to pull. 



Teach to Travel in IIarnes§. 

After a horse is broke to the cart, as above de- 
scribed, it is no trouble to teach him to travel in 
harness. But suppose he has not been broke to 
the cart, you will take out cringes as therein de- 
scribed, and commence driving, moderately at first 
preferring rough roads, to accustom him to the 
rattle and bouncing of the vehicle before you are 
deprived of your means of control. Then, in a 
good road, you will commence hurrying him, and 
get him to trot. Soon stop him. Each time you 
ou can hurry him a little more, but do not 
trot r. In teaching a horse to do your will never 
let your lessons extend to heat or worry him, make 
your drives short and brisk- 



Saddling. 

Present the saddle to the horse for examination. 
Speak kindly, caress, &c, until you have made 
him entirely familiar with the new object. Put 
it on his back, pass it over bis back and under his 
belly, &c, controlling when necessary and entire- 
ly remove fear ; then fasten it on only moderately 
tight, cause him to step oil", stop and girt as tight 
as you please and he will not care for the riew 
pleasure. Move him about a little, keeping him 
quiet and submissive. 



21 



Teacii to be Mounted and to MMe. 

Bring a box or block to his side, get on it and 
caress him, lean on the saddle that he may see you 
on both sides, put one leg over, get in saddle, get 
off, mount and get down several times, all the while 
interspersing caresses, if he is quiet ; control or 
force to be quiet, if he is disposed to scare or be 
restless ; remove box and mount by stirrup a few 
times. When you have him broke to stand still 
while being mounted, he is ready to teach to ride ; 
move him off quietly, guide him about, &c, inter- 
spersing caresses. Remember short lessons are 
the best. When you have got him to riding quiet- 
ly, (See instructions *on gaiting.) 



Styling, 

I might say something profitable for the poor, 
suffering, faithful horse, on the spurious taste of a 
great many would be hostlers, but space will not 
admit. When a horse is properly formed, and 
your fancy leads you in that discretion, you should 
not forget to be merciful to the animal and let 
your means be abusive, but ever bearing in mind 
to teach him what you require him to do, by the 
most gentle and patient means, for he knows not 
that you want him to hold his head high with 
arched neck, until you have taught it to him, 
which should be done in a gradual manner, not 
confining it at first as you want it, keeping it in 
that position for hours, but, with style* bridle 

*The style bridle has a large smooth bit and 
strong rings, a pulley attached behind each ear. 
The centre of the rope is placed on the top of the 
head passing down with check pieces through bit 
rings back to and through pulley passing back to> 
surcingle. 



22 



and i ope. You will at first fasten it where he is 
accustomed to carry his head, and let it stay from 
ten to twenty minutes; he soon finds he can get 
slack by raising his head ; this does not make him 
heavy in hand, it also gives time for muscular de- 
velopment, and does not disgust the horse with 
the desired position. Were you to take a colt ac- 
customed to grazing and force his head to the po- 
sition you desire, for half a day at a time, you not 
only disgust him, making him strive to carry his 
head down, with callous mouth, whose sensibility 
has been killed by this long and heavy pressure, 
but you are subject to produce sphacelus of the 
soft parts, disfiguring your horse as well as discom- 
moding him in the necessary operation of eating. 
He should have two or three short lessons a day, 
beginning at the natural position, carrying the 
head up a little more each time until you get it as 
high as you want. If the neck is not arched 
enough, you will fasten the rope lower on the sur- 
n ing the higher the rope is drawn on 
sure;. tgher will go his head, and the 

lower on surcingle, the more arch his neck will 
have. After you horse has learned the position, 
in which you require him to carry his head, and 
will readily assume it when the bridle is tightened, 
you may keep his head in that position during each 
lesson, while training him, letting his head loose 
as soon as your lesson is through, observing the rule 
of short lessons, &c. After three months practice 
in this way you will have your horse of as fine a 
style as his form will admit of. Never drive a 
horse with his head checked tight. 



Tiie Vieaois§ Horse. 

Some horses are disposed not to recognize man 
as their master, and have a great propensity to 



23 

resist his handling and teaching. I include all 
liorses under this head that are disposed to set up 
their will against mine. If the horse is v*ry bad, 
for lighting, you had better approach him gradu- 
ally and prepare, as Mr. Barey says, with a half 
open door between you and him. Teach him you 
do not care for his open mouth by rebuking his 
bad acts by not going into a pitched battle with 
him. Use the lasso and choke him down, if need 
be, but relieve him quickly, and at the same time 
secure your pulley -rope or gag- bit in his mouth ; 
also footstraps on fore feet. When you are in full 
readiness, .let the horse regain his wind, and then 
commence your approach, touch, or whatever 
causes him to attempt to fight. With pulley-rope 
in hand, footstraps held by assistants, you are 
ready te rebnke error, and teach him submission. 
If he attempts to fight you have advantages to your- 
self, and should use them. Let the horse's con- 
duct govern yours, having for your object to make 
him unconditionally submit to your will, and then 
allow you to convince him that you are his friend 
as well as master. Then he is as easily taught as 
the wild horse, when fear is removed. &c. You 
have to bring both where they are willing to re- 
ceive instruction; the latter by quiet means only, 
the other by gaining the master v, rebuking bad 
conduct, and making friends when submissive. 
You should seek eveiy opportunity to make friends 
with him, on your terms, i. e., complete submis- 
sion. Be uncompromising with his vices; teach 
him your approach will not hurt him, but the. e is 
a penalty attached to every attempt to resist him; 
also remind him of his inability to do so. Teach 
him to take no thought for himself, that he is in 
the hands of a true and trusty friend on whose 
fidelity he might, with confidence, rely. This is . 
the principle. Fow go to work with pully-rope in 
hand, and tell your assistants, if any, when to 
take his feet from him and bring him to the ground. 



24 



When you have fully subdued him — get him to 
recognize or fear you as his master, love you as 
his friend, you proceed to instruct- him in the- 
things he is required to do under the general 
principles of kindness, appealing properly to his 
understanding, &c. 



Tricky Horse. 

Do not try to keep the horse from his tricks.. 
Leave him free to commit them, or rather give some 
inducement to make the attempt and be in readi- 
ness to rebuke it. Always gain control of your 
horse before you commence operations, then bring 
to bear the canse of trick, rebuke the very at- 
tempt and caress submission. In tricky horses 
you will find one or both of the first two classifi- 
cations prominent, hut fear is generally the start- 
ing cause, by not being properly broke. He 
sometimes gM ins advantage by this self defence 
and his intelligence is such as quickly compre- 
hends it, then he persists and you find obstinate: 
determination superceding fear. 



Tile Kicking Horse. 

This perhaps generally starts from fear. The 
horse sometimes gains advantages which induce 
him to continue it, but in the majority of cases, 
he hurts himself, thus increasing his fear as the 
hurt comes from the same dire- tion. He holds 
th3 object of fear responsible for his hurt and not 
his acts, hence it never breaks up the habit but 
invariably makes it worse. As an evidence of this, 
you perhaps, have known cases where horses 
and mules kick in the wagon as they pull and a. 



25 



rough iron brake was fixed in their reach that 
they might hit to break them: the result was 
it hurt them and made them worse. You 
should always try to avoid the horse getting 
hurt by kicking, but let the hurt come from a 
different point, and thus take his attention from 
the object of fear. You may remove fear and 
many horses will quit kicking; some few never 
attempt it again. You may abuse the animal by- 
fastening his front and hind feet together, and 
make fast the object of his fear to him, and let 
him hurt and worry himself until he will submit, 
but I prefer the use of pulley rope and whip. 
First, take out cringes as practiced by your in- 
structor, beginning gradually to rub him with the 
whip, increasing in force and rashness as he will 
bear it. Stop and caress submission, and rebuke 
a want of it with your pulley-rope, which comes 
from a different point to that of his fear, divert- 
ing his attention, which gives you an opportunity 
to handle the very pla ce of his fear with the whip^ 
and convince him it will not hurt, but something 
else may, if he attempts to resist or escape its touch. 
Give your attention to gentling the ticklish part 
as well as rebuking the vice. Do not be sparing 
withyour caresses, they approve his submission and 
tell lr.m he is doing right. Perhaps your horse made 
great efforts when he first felt the power of the 
pulleys, but he soon found the futility of resist- 
ance or trying to escape. Then was the time you 
convinced him of your mastery, and immediately 
after, that you were his friend. You should look 
and speak kindly to the horse; using quiet words, 
soothing his excitement, trying to get his nerves 
quiet under the rubbing, and handling with the 
whip. To be expert in this, requires some skill 
and practice. When you have him perfectly 
gentle to the touch of the whip, you may take 
him a step further, observing to break well as you 
go. You should now prepare for the struggle.. 



26 



In addition to the pnlloy rope, apply foot straps; 
also, if the case requires it, apply hock straps and 
rope around jaw, or the rope from neck or collar 
passing through ring at hind foot with strong 
plough gear, with hooks tied up so as not to come 
loose or hurt the horse — instead of a plow stock, 
tie a rope to a single-tree, which completes your 
preparations. Bring to bear the cause by teasing 
his legs with a single-tree and traces, and make him 
attempt to kick, which you will, with firmness ; 
rebuke roughly. A kicking horse is never well 
broke if he will not attempt to kick, and let you 
teach him the penalty of kicking. When he sub- 
mit?, be quiet and kind to him, and remove ex- 
citement. Bring to bear the cause again, &c. Be 
rough when he is rough, watching closely, and 
when he is disposed to submit, handle light and 
gently with cause, not giving him more than his 
nature will bear. If he seems to want to submit, 
be very careful not to hurt him; teach him your 
requirements of unconditional submission on his 
part; that you will not hurt him if he submits, 
and that he has no cause for kicking; and remind 
him of his inability to kick; taking him from bad 
to worse, until you could make him kink. After 
the horse is well broke to harness, you may bring 
up the vehicle, and after you have gentled him 
well to it; removed all disposition to kick, you 
may commence teaching him to go between the 
shafts without being hitched. Occasionally bring 
to bear the canse that once made him kick, and 
at the snine time be in readiness with your rough- 
est means to rebuke the attempt, when an assist- 
ant would take the vehicle from him, if the case 
required it to prevent accident,ypu having already 
taken his attention to the point of rebuke. If 
the vehicle was taken from him, you will bring it 
back at once, when he gets up, if not down, 
as you stop the rebuke. Now caress and sooth, 
if he submits. Do not be in a hurry to hitch, for 



ti 



the longer you are breaking the better. . Break 
well before you hitch. After you have a little ex- 
perience in handling, you may take the worst 
kicker and soon have him perfectly safe for a 
woman or child to drive. A good preventive for 
kicking is the style bridle and, rope; the rope 
passes back through a ring where the hip strap 
crosses the back strap; draw tight and tie to 
shafts even with thigh : when one end stays up, 
the other must stay down. 



The Runaway florae. 

Some horses, of an excitable and head strong 
disposition, will make frequent attempts to get 
away with their driver, and, if he once succeeds, 
will try harder next time ; others run away entire- 
. ly from fright. In the first case, you will train 
him sharply on the mouth with the pulley rope, in 
connection "with foot straps, bringing cause to bear, 
controlling and sufficiently rebuking his sin, then 
commence driving. When fear is the cause re- 
move it and accustom him to cause as in case, of 
the kicking horse. 



Balking' ©r Jumping. 

This is quite a pernicious habit and the most ag- 
gravating the horse possesses, and I have thought 
could not be broken up by any other method, while 
I have never failed to make one a trusty puller. It 
is necessary that you should merely get the horse- 
out of a bad scrape while on the road or elsewhere, 
until you can give the whole of your attention to 
breaking up the habit. You should always teach 
your horse to pull well in breaking, then you will 



28 



be bothered with no such traits, for this (i. e. the 
want of knowing how to pull, is the most prolific 
source of balking horses.) Generally your most 
excitable, nervous, high strung horses (which are 
always the best) are the balkers, but sometimes 
you have what Mr. Rockwell terms the sleepy 
balker which is very obstinate and persistently re- 
fuses to move. To get a horse out of a scrape, is 
your first duty. If he is in a team and is being 
over anxious is the cause, you should use all avail- 
able means to quiet him and teach moderation. 
You cand stand before him and fondle with him 
until the other horses are fairly started or in mo- 
tion. You may hold up one fore-foot and thus at- 
tract his attention until the other horses have made 
their start. You may tie his tail between his hind 
legs to the girth with a rope. The following are 
applicable also to single harness. Turn him around 
several times briskly and give the word immedi- 
ately to start. Take him around with a few draws 
of pully rope and make him willing to start at 
the word. Strap up one fore-foot and use the pul- 
ley rope freeley. hopping him for some minutes 
and give the word quietly after hitching. Never 
speak harshly to him. When he pulls, caress a 
great deal and try to quiet him. 

By the above means you will sometimes break a 
horse from balking, but they cannot be relied on 
to pull with such sanguine expectation, as if they 
had never learned to balk. For one to break up 
the habit, I want him fully spoiled — the worse he 
is, the better I like it. If he comes under the head 
of Rockwell's sleepy balker, take him down and 
take the mulish madness out of him. (You will 
first be sure he will not go at the word.) Take 
up the near fore-foot with short foot strap, have on 
surcingle, tie a rope around his neck and pass it 
though the month from left to right, up through 
surcinlge ring on withers. Convince the horse he is 
hitchei without its being so. Give him the word 



29 



to sfart, and, if he refuses push his head with left 
hand, with the other draw on rope, carry his head 
to right side (at the same time your assistant takes 
away the cart which the horse does not notice.) 
You continue drawing firmly on the rope and carry 
liis chin to his withers, keeping your position near 
the surcingle on left side, letting him turn a few 
times as you gradually carry his head up, and he 
will He down of his own accord because he can no 
longer stand. As he lies on his left side you will 
let in a few licks sharply on the flank or thin part of 
belly with a clap board, shingle or something that 
will pop and make a noise, so as to scare more than 
hurt him; and at the same time holding him down 
with rope in left hand. The above (i. e. after you 
get him down,) should be done with considerable 
fire and energy, but without malice; you will now 
grasp his nostrils, one in each hand and shut off his 
breath as long as you think it safe; then let him 
breathe, and again shut off for a few times; then 
let him get up and your assistant should bring the 
cart or vehicle immediately on him; give the word 
to start quietly; if he goes caress as he moves off, 
if not, repeat the above until he is willing to be- 
lieve that he has no choice in it whatever, and 
learns what you require of him. Even in this 
rough handling you must not forget to be kind to 
the horse. Never let him think you are mad with 
him, but convince,him you are his friend as well as 
director. Sometimes, in this breaking, you will 
have the horse to start in a jump and splurge, es- 
pecially, if he has much life; then he must be broke 
as the excitable splurging balker. The balker is 
handled as the vicious horse, because he sets his 
will up against yours. To break the splurging 
balker or one that will not pull steadily, if mode- 
rate means will not quiet him, you should be in 
readiness with pulley rope and two long foot 
straps, one on each fore-foot, held by assistants. 
See that gear and cart are strong and in good fix. 



30 



See it is properly girted between the shafts so he 
cannot get out. Now, when you urge him forward, 
if he pulls quietly, caress, &c, if he splurges, take 
his feet from him and use pulley rope, and keep- 
him on his knees until he gives up or will pull 
moderately. Sometimes he will become sullen^ 
then liberate from the cart with one foot strapped 
up and handle roughly with pulley rope, until he 
is willing to move moderately at the word. Never 
let him move but a few paces at a time, as it is the 
start that this class of horses dislike. I! he gets- 
in another splurge use pulley rope and foot straps 
to the extent of curing his sins. Start and stop 
often, that he may learn to pull off steadily. By- 
caressing, approve his pulling and with pulley- 
rope and foot straps, teach him the unconditional 
submission you require of him, and by gentle 
means teach to pull. 

You may take the worst kind of balkers, and 
handle them this way two or three times a day for 
a few days, and have him to pull at the word 
against a stump a dozen times. 



Refusing to be Caught. 

With whip and pulley rope teach him to come 
to you. Give him something he is fond of; apply 
loDg foot strap; brandish whip and bid him come 
as when pulley rope was ou. If he comes, give 
him a bit of apple and caress. If he should re- 
fuse or attempt to escape, take a fore foot from 
him: he soon learns that you are always ready to 
take him up; that he cannot escape you; that he 
has nothing to fear in coming; that his safety is 
in coming, and danger in trying to escape. A 
few lessons, with after kindness, will break him. 



31 



Pulling on Salter. 

If the horse rears back against halter in stal 
by something being thrown in manger that gives 
him fright, you will pass the centre of a long rope 
under tail as a crupper, carry over back, give it a 
few twists, then pass through head-stall of halter 
and fasten to manger. Bring to bear cause, and 
let him splurge and rebuke the other end ; when 
he gives up, caress. Kepeat, &c. When he is 
tied out doors and takes fright, be in readiness 
with rope power (use rope No. 2), and make the 
act punish. If he is the habitual puller, because 
he is unwilling to stand, rope No. 2 is a sure cure. 



Slipping the Collar or Bridle. 

A collar throat latch from two to four inches 
behind head-stall, to which it is attached by exten- 
sion of brow- band, completely takes away the 
power of slipping the bridle. 



Jumping the Fence. 

To prevent a horse from jumping you can take 
an old boot leg or a like substance long enough to 
extend from brow band to nose band of halter, 
and wide enough to cover the face, and pass the 
eyes one inch. Fasten the upper corners to the 
head-stall of halter immediately below the ears, 
split from a point just above a level with the eyes 
to nose band, taking inner corners at nose band 
and fasten to check pieces of head-stall. The 
horse will not jump because he cannot see where 
to jump, and for the same reason he will not run. 
This only prevents jumping but will not break up 



32 



the habit. To break up the habit, you will pass 
long strap through ring under the breast or sur- 
cingle made fast to hock straps and knee straps, 
which will take down his fore-leg when he rears 
to jump and thus check him in the very attempt. 
Give him the inducement with strap on, and take 
away the inducement when off. A little atten- 
tion and your horse could not be made to rear up 
to jump anything. 



Shynes§. 

This is the legitimate offspring of fear, excited 
by suspicion, apprehension, appearance or ap- 
proach of danger. There are three causes 
or classes of shyness. First, native or congen- 
ital, as found in the colt. Second, acquired, 
in which he beholds an object familiar to him, 
which he associates with some former suffering. 
Third, caused by imperfect vision. This vice, 
from either of the above causes, is frequently 
increased by violent acts of the driver. You 
should never whip a horse for doing that which 
you wish him to do, for the horse will associate 
the pain you inflict with the object of fear, and 
the next time he takes fright, make more desper- 
ate efforts to get away. Gentleness, kindness and 
persuasion, are your means, remembering to 
control when he attempts to escape. Cause him 
to stand still — allow him to examine the object 
he fears — speak kindly to him, and encourage 
him to go to it, but do not whip. When he has 
gone to it, and found that it is not a ferocious 
beast, or anything else to hurt him, cause him to 
pass it several times; soon his fear vanishes, and 
by thus controlling and gently managing, he soon 
learns to place confidence in you and there is 
nothing to hart him, and a gentle word will be 



33 



sufficient to induce him to pass any object. You 
must bear in mind to only rebuke the attempt to 
escape by controlling. 



Unsteadiness while being Mounted. 

{See saddling and teaching to ride, page — .) 
When mounting, your horse should always 
stand without being held or reins drawn tight, 
for he is not so well broke nor so safe until you 
can see the absence of fear, the assurance of con- 
fidence and the submission to your will that 
causes him to stand without restraint. To bring 
a horse to this, that is said to be broke to the sad- 
dle but unsteady to mount, you must control with 
pulley rope, and teach him you require him to be 
perfectly still while being mounted. By mount- 
ing and dismounting, caressing his being per- 
fectly quiet, and rebuking with pulley rope every 
attempt to move Two or 'hree lessons a day 
for a If w days will have tbe worst horse "all 
right."' 



Hearing. 

For this vice you will mainly depend on long 
foot straps, and take his fore-feet from him so that 
he will come down as the rebuke for rearing, but 
if he will not come clown, tie a rope in the collar and 
pass through ring at hind-foot and reduce him to 
the necessity of coming down, by taking the third 
foot from him. Continue until thoroughly broke^ 
by bringing to bear cause and rebuking the vice. 



34 



Vicious to Clean. 

You should bear in mind some horses have a 
inucji more sensitive skin than others, and use 
prober precaution not to hart them, but to break 
up the vice of restiveness and resistance while 
being cleaned. Control with pulley rope and 
teach him the reward of vice, and handle gently 
and freely the sensitive parts. 



Vicious to Shoe. 

This evil, like all others, generally proceeds from 
bad management. To teach the young nervous 
horse to yield his feet, you should use the pulftey 
rope and gentle him to the operation for a few 
days before carrying him to the shop. Should he 
be a little stubborn about giving up his feet, you 
can use long foot strap passing over withers, when 
applied to fore-feet and from collar through rimy 
at hind-feet by titiich you can take up his feet at 
the command, control him and force him to sub- 
mit with pulley rope; thus teach him what you 
require him to do as directed elsewhere. The 
spoiled horse should be handled more roughly 
with pulleys, and teach him the penalty of rebel- 
lion until he will entirely submit to your will. 



Rolling in Stall. 

To prevent a horse rolling in stall, you must 
prevent his getting his head down. 



Pawing. 

To prevent this, use the shackle with chain long 
enough to allow him to change his positioM. 



35 

Wearing. 

Do not shut him up in close stall and allow the 
liberty of exercise. 



Hugging the Pole in Double Harness. 

Put sharp, short tacks in a strip of leath- 
er, nailing it on pole with the points to the hors©. 



Refusing to Stand While Getting in 
Carriage. 

Pat your horse between the shafts without hitch- 
ing traces; ascend to the seat as usual, and rebuke 
the attempt to move, with pulley rope and foot 
straps, if necessary. Force him to stand perfectly 
quiet while you ascend and descend. Repeat a few 
times each lesson, giving lessons enough to en- 
tirely break the habit, always moving off quietly. 



Stumbling. 

A confirmed horse, in this vice, should be avoid- 
ed. If it arises from a heavy forehand, or, from 
fore-legs being too much under him, no one can 
change the form of the animal. If it arises from 
disease you ought to try to remove the cause. Dr. 
McClure regards it as arising from nervous debil- 
ity resulting in atony of the flexor muscles of the 
shoulder which is sometimes probable. Then you 
should physic with nervous tonics (Nux vomica) 
and use heavy friction over those muscles. If it 
can be traced to habitual carelessness you cannot 
whip it out; but, if you will take the case in time, 
give rest and ride in rough uneven ground, and 



36 



but a little while at a time, you may cause hitn to 
move higher in front and thus partially remedy 
the evil. 



Overreaching or Clicking. 

In this you should cut away the loose part and' 
protect from dirt— bevel or round off the inside 
rim or edge of hind shoe, keeping his head up 
does something to prevent this*, but the smith may- 
do more by shortening the hind shoe and having 
the web broad. 



Ho ! or Whoa ! 

There is no other word in horse training of so 
much importance; it is our safe-guard in case of 
accident or danger, for which reason, the animal 
should learn its meaning perfectly and unhesita- 
tingly obey. This important word should never 
be used oitt of its proper place, to prevent confu- 
sion. Iu approaching the animal, while standing 
quietly in the stall, or elsewhere, you should never 
say "Whoa," but rather such words as, 'get over/ 
"go over,'' "quietly, my boys," or any other 
words you may choose, to give the necessary 
alarm, and apprise the horse of your approach 
and presence. Under vo circumstance should 
you use the word "Whoa," unless the horse 
is. in motion and you wish him to stop. 
In order to teach him the force of its mean- 
ing, have on long foot strap and lines for driving 
from behind. Now, in training, never draw stead- 
ily on the line to make a horse stop, but associate 
with the word a disagreeable seesaw check with the 
line. If he stops, caress, and teach him the mean- 
ing of the word. Repeat until he will stop prompt- 



37 



ly at the word. If he is disposed to be excited, 
take a foot from him and reduce to the necessity 
of stopping. Then caress and teach as before. 



emailing. 

Before waiting, if you wish your horse to excell, 
you should look at his form and see if nature has 
capacitated him for what von desire. You should 
also notice the natural position of any gait, and 
see if your horse has something of its marks, be- 
fore expecting him a premium horse in that gait. 
For instance, if he paces up in front and down 
behind, with hind feet drawn well under the 
body; now for this gait you would close up in 
front, carrying his head high and moving low 
behind. The single foot is still higher in front. 
The trot is low in front and high behind. The 
fox trot is low in front but not so low as the trot. 
For a horse of much speed, you should choose 
one with long legs, light body, good bone and 
heavy mustles, but not a superabundance of flesh, 
for this belongs to the draft horse only. 



Pacing. 

You remember the position or style of this gait, 
(L e., up in front and down behind.) Now we 
will consider the gait. What is the pace ? It is 
moving a side at a time, a right fore foot and a 
right hind foot, coming down at the same time, &c. 
To teach a horse to pace, you should first teach 
him the step, and afterwards develop his speed 
by practice. For this purpose, you will first ap- 
ply surcingle with large ring on it, under the 
breast ; next hock strap ; next knee strap on fore 
legs above the knee ; next spring strap through. 



38 

ring on surcingle under the "breast ; next long 
strap, fast to knee strap, passing through spring 
strap, fast to knee strap, passsing through ring 
on spring strap, and made fast to hock strap, 
after drawing hind legs well under him. Now 
let him learn the step before it is taken off ; he 
wiH soon find the way he can step without being 
checked ; he cannot move in any other way than 
a side at a time. Very soon you may commence 
riding him with straps on, bearing in mind to 
carry his head high each time, until you get it in 
a proper position for a pace. You can soon try 
him without being strapped up. If he will not 
take a pace readily, apply your straps made fast 
with a nail, to each of which you will have at- 
tached a string. Now mount and take the strings, 
and when he is fairly pacing, draw out the nails 
and loose the straps, having your strings so ar- 
ranged as to take up the straps to prevent his 
stepping on them. In this way you will soon 
have him pacing off nicely without straps. 
Should he move too high behind, you may fasten 
a boot to hind leg with pocket out side, and drop 
m bars of lead, sufficient to make him move low 
with hind feet. Sometimes a pair of heavy shoes 
will answer this purpose. Give him short but- 
frequent lessons. 



The Fox Trot. 

This is moving with a right fore-foot and a left 
hind foot, &c, the fore-foot coming down first. 
To teach a horse this step you will only have to 
cross your straps. Practice as in pacing. 



39 

Speeding, 

There are a good many things to be considered 
in thoroughly speeding a horse, but, in this short 
•work, I will only consider the means of makjng a 
horse trot or pace honestly, that is, to be pu$hecl 
and not break up. Apply hock straps, next speed 
strap; now, with a little practice, you hardly could 
hurry him out of his trot or pace. The speed strap 
or two reins being attached to the bit coming 
together at the breast, passing between fore-legs 
and behind surcingle, attached to a large pulley 
through which plays a strap, running from hock 
strap on one hind leg to the other. 



To Teach a Horse Tricks. 

To teach a horse tricks, it is necessary, to have 
him under tolerably good command; then cause 
him to do what you desire. At the same time give 
him a sign. Continue repeating or causing him 
to repeat from time to time, until he learns it per- 
fectly, bearing in mind to caress or approve when 
he does as you want him. 



To Teach a Morse to Lie Down. 

Strap up near fore-foot; take your position on 
the near side, holding a strong bridle, off rein in 
right hand and near one in left hand, with chin 
stay (check piece) to prevent the bit's slipping 
through his mouth ; now press him back until he 
comes down on his near knee, keeping him there 
until he will lie down; should he attempt to rise, 
pull him sharply to you and press back as before. 
(Jennings.) 

(Another, nearly like Rarey. ) Strap trp the near 



40 



fore foot as before, apply long foot strap to right 
fore-foot which you will hold in gloved right hand 
as it comes over his back; with a whip or little stick 
tap his off fore-leg, and when you take his foot up 
keep it up, which will bring him to his knees; pull 
his head to you, press gently with your shoulder 
against his side until he lies down. Unstrap and 
straighten out his legs, caress and let him rest for 
fifteen or twenty minutes, then let him get up. 
Three or four puttings down at a lesson with two 
lessons a day will soon have a horse to lie down 
by the tap of off fore-leg. 

Rowland's system is two long foot straps to fore- 
feet, passing through surcingle ring on withers, 
and held by two assistants, a rope tied in a strong 
collar parsing back through ring at hind-foot and 
held in front of the animal by the operator, who, 
jilso has a whip in hand; a good straw bed com- 
pletes the preparation. You will now give him 
the sign, by hitting with whip on fore-legs, saying 
Coiiw down, Sir. or lie down, Sir, and forcibly take 
three feet from him and he comes down almost 
without a struggle. 

Straighten out his legs, arrange every thing to 
feel pleasant to him. Caress, and let him rest for 
a few minutes, then let him up. Repeat a few 
times each lesson giving three or four lessons a 
day, and the most obstinate horse will lie down 
readily in one week. 



To Sit Up- 

After teaching a horse to lie down, you will cause 
him to raise his head, encouraging him to start to 
rise by placing his feet, speaking kindly to him, 
saying, "get up, Sir,'' using pulley rope (or bridle, 
if it is sufficient,) when he bears his weight on 
fore-feet, lightly check him and say "whoa!" at the 
same times caress him fondly and support him in 
that position, also give him something he is fond 



41 



of. But few lessons will be required to teach the 
Iiorse this little trick after he has been taught to 
lie down. 



To An§wer Que§tion§. 

In teaching this trick to the horse, he may be 
irritable, in which case you will control ^ith 
pulleys, &c. If a fly bites a horse on his neck or 
withers, he will shake his head to get clear of his 
tormentor, which suggested the use of a pin to 
make him shake his head, which signifies no. 
By repeating this operation a few times, he will 
say no by raising your hand to your hat, or rais- 
ing your hat. Kemember to caress when he says 
no. On the same principle as the above, to pinch 
him in the breast will cause him to nod assent." 
Always ask the question before you make the 
motion with the hand. You can also use a stick 
with pin fixed in end of it for show horses, and 
while you are performing some long ceremony in 
the form of a question (which is empty sounds 
to the horse's understanding,) at the termination 
of which, you carry the whip which you were 
brandishing in the air, towards the breast or 
withers, as the answer may require, and he wiil 
respond according to your wishes. To teach him 
to count, you must prick his fore leg, which 
makes him stamp-. Caress and repeat, until he 
will commence by a slight motion, and continue 
until your hand pulls. While you are looking 
about, the horse will be watching your hand. 
You may say — how many ears of corn do you 
want, my boy ? and he counts as many as you 
want him to have. 



42 



To Kiss You. 

To teach a horse this affectionate trick, take a 
piece of apple or some other substance he is fond 
of in your hand, and let him smell it. He will 
then try to get it ; but you should carry it to your 
cheek, and say "kiss me;" and let him take it from 
your cheek. Repeat this a few times, and he 
soon learns that " kiss me," means apple, and 
will put up his mouth to take it. When opera- 
ting privately, always give him apple, and he will 
promptly obey when showing in public. 



To Shake Hands. 

Take your position in front and say, give me 
your right or left foot, or, shake hands. Using a 
pin lightly on the required leg which will make 
him raise it. You take hold of it and caress. Very 
soon at the snap of the finger whioh you do at the 
time you prick him, he gives up his foot prompt- 
ly. As soon as he learns to give up one, you may 
train him on the other. 



To Kick With dither Foot. 

Choose a horse predisposed to kindness; take a 
pin in right hand and say, "kick with left foot" at 
the same time pricking. Very soon at the motion 
of the hand he performs his part; then teach him 
by the gentle touch of the whip. When one leg 
obeys, train the other in same way. 



Teach to Waltz. 

Some horses can readily be taught to waltz or 
dance, for which use girth and short strf.p, with a 



43 



loop at one end of short strap, to fasten to the ring 
of bridle bit. Draw the strap through the girth 
buckle so as to bring his head a little to the rpear 
side; have your music going on any waltz desired 
at the same time turning the animal with the whip 
lightly about the legs. He soon learns to turn 
merely by the motion of the whip, withtfuufc being 
touched. After a week or ten days the strap can- 
be removed and head left free. 



Whip Taaining. 

For whip training it is particularly necessary to 
gain the control and confidence of the horse, be- 
fore beginning your lesson; make your lessons 
short; leave him alone when you make a new 
point. You should provide yourself with a bit of 
apple or something the horse is fond of ; vou en- 
ter a roomy stall with whip in hand, and after get- 
ting the horse quiet, you being on near side, will 
carry yourjhand over his back and gently tap the off 
shoulder point, until you observe that he notices 
the whip, then, with left hand to his neok, you 
push him around to the right, as you carry the 
whip back, by his hips and round his rump. As 
he turns, you drop back to his head on the right 
side, give him a bit of apple and caress fondly. 
You will repeat this until he will turn promptly, 
by merely seeing the whip on the off side ; then 
in the same way teach him to turn in the opposite 
direction. {Remember short lessons ) You have 
gone thus far without harness or strap, but now 
you need surcingle and long foot strap. Take 
him out of stall and to the corner of the lot, and 
proceed as before. He may feel his liberty and 
attempt an escape ; do not be rash, but take his 
foot from him, not using your whip, only as a 
sign for him to turn, and he will soon give up and 
obey. Turn a few times in both directions, and 



44 

give him another recess. After you have him 
well trained, you may commence driving. You 
may find it a little troublesome at first, as he 
thinks it is his duty to come around to the whip, 
but by a little patience and perseverance, he will 
soon learn what you want him to do. I generally 
have some one to lead him along a path that he 
is willing to go : as he goes, I gently tap him with 
the whip on the back, or lay the whip on his back. 
When you have walked him about in this way, 
with you behind him, until he is willing to go 
alone, yon will give him the motion of the whip 
to fcnrn. If he should not turn, take •a foot from 
him, and go through such of the above instruc- 
tions to make him turn; then caress and give 
apple. In this way you will teach him to drive 
by dropping the whip to his back, and turn by 
waving it in the desired direction. To teach him 
to stop, you should turn the whip horizontally, 
and raise it ; at the same time use the word 
" Whoa !" and take a foot from him. A few rep- 
etitions of this, and he will stop by raising the 
whip and drawing foot strap: a little further, and 
he w ill stop to the raising of the whip. Having 
previously taught him to back promptly to the 
word, you mny commence a downward and up- 
ward motion of the whip over his back, at the 
same time telling him to back. This is best done 
in a sulkey. He will soon learn to back to the 
motion of the whip. When he is well trained to 
all his duty, without bridle, and performs nicely, 
you ;ire ready for driving; but for some weeks 
you should have the safeguard of long foot straps 
applied to fore feet, and laid where you could 
easily reach them. You should teach him to de- 
pend entirely upon the whip, when the bridle 
was off, and on the bridle, when the bit is in 
his mouth. 



45 

Shoeing. 

I do not propose entering into a full treatise on 
shoeing diseased feet, which would require a sketch 
of the anatomy of the horse, mechanism of mo- 
tion, &c, but merely to drop a few hints on shoe- 
ing sound feet. It is important to observe three 
points in shoeing; first, keep the foot naturally 
true; secondly, preserve the natural equal bearings 
of the foot; thirdly, protect it from injury; for by 
the first we prevent the unnatural strain on a part 
of the tendons of the leg, a part being idle while 
the horse is laboring, and make all participate as 
nature intended; also, we remedy or prevent a 
troublesome evil, (interf erring) : by the second, we 
prevent pressure on the sole, by paring the foot, 
and also, by beveling the shoe, keeping the pres- 
sure natural, i. e. , on the wall or crust. For the 
third, you have need of studying the diseases of 
the feet, their cause, Sec, and try to prevent them. 
Most diseases of the feet, and stumblers ,are either 
directly or indirectly the result of bad shoeing. 
Horse shoers have been long in the habit of using 
the knife and rasp too freely, to keep the sound 
feet long so. When the old shoe is carefully re - 
moved, the horn or crust should be gently rasped 
to remove pieces of nails and fragments of the 
horny substance, which is all that is necessary in 
a true foot. The shoe should be a plain one, be- 
veled on inside to prevent pressing the sole. 
Dr*iy horses should be shod with tips or toes and 
heels, to secure firmness of tread and greater pow- 
er, when drawing heavy loads especially in cities 
on paved streets. 



DISEASES OF THE HORSE. 



Abrasion.— See bleeding wounds. 

Abcess.— Promote the formation of pus by poulticing; 

then open. (Age.) 
Amaurosis.— See Diseases of the Eye. 
Aneurism.— Send for a good Surgeon. 
Apoplexy.— Apply ice to head and promote warmth 

and circulation in legs; give tincture of aconite, <fec. 
Apt ha. — See Diseases of Month. 
Belly Ache.— See Colic. 
Big Head.— It is incurable. 
Bishoping.— To hollow out front teeth with an en- 

graver's tool; from the name of the scoundrel who 

first performed it. 
Bite of Mad Dog.— Burn the part immediately 

with caustic or hot iron. 
Bleeding.— Obsolete. 
Bleeding from Wounds.— Apply cottos wet 

vith ^pir ts of turpentine or burst copperas, with 

bandage. 
Bloody Urine.— See Kidney Diseases. 
Bots.— See Worms. 

Brain Diseases.— See Appolexy and Staggers* 
Bronchitis. — (Acute.) Sweat, by giving 15 or 20 

drops tincture of aconite every four hours; if 

weather is cold, wrap well; repair loss with good 

wholesome diet, and Nux vomica, 1 oz. dose. 
Burns.— Apply linseed oil and lime water mixed. 
Chronic— Give Sulph. Iron and Gentian for two 

V*eki; then rub wind-pipe once a week with Bin. 

Iodide of Mercury ointment. 
Cancers.— Incurable, but when one bursts, treat as 

Abcess. 
Carditis.— Incurable; see Thump3. 
Cavies of Teeth.— Remove them. 
Cavles of Bone.— Arsenic and the hot iron is re- 

tf^nm<ilid«d. 



47 



Castration.— This is a simple and safe operation, 
and can be performed by any person, onoe having 
seen it done, if he has the resolution to do io. It 
has been demonstrated that it can be performed on 
old horses with as much safety as on colts. This 
is attributed to an instrument used, called Ecra- 
seun. There are no clamps, n«o firing, no twitching, 
no washing or any other trouble afterwards. The 
instrument is manufactured for this purpose by 
sugical instrument makers in Philadelphia, New 
York, and elsewhere. 

Colic, Spasmodic— Give a little whiskey and gin- 
ger or pepper. If it does not give relief soon, you 
can repeat it and add to it one table spoonful of 
laudanum and four of spirits turpentine. 

Colic, Stercoral.— Causeg :. Occlusion, impaction, 
or constipation of the bowels. Treatment: In all 
cases open the bowels and relieve pain ; and if from 
impaction or constipation, open the bowels with 
aloes and sweat, and relieve pain with tincture of 
aconite; if by occlusion from grubs or bots (as they 
sometimes block up the pilorie orifice), see treat- 
ment for Grubs, asd combine laudanum and spirits 
turpentine. 

Colic, Flatulent.— In this variety you should ease 
pain and clear the horse of gas, which is sometimes 
done by injections or drenching. Should this fail- 
perhaps you had better make him inhale chloro, 
form. Last remedy: Procure an instrument called 
a trocar, and if this be not at hand, sharpen a 
breakfast knife, and measure an equal distance 
from the haunch bone to the short rib, and not too 
high upon the back, force the knife into the dis- 
tended bowel, turn it one-fourth round, and let out 
all the imprisoned gas. 

Coma. — A horse is said to be in a comatose state 
when in an apoplectic fit, in sleepy staggers, and 
when dying from Spasmodic Colic, which see 

Cestiveness.— Supply with soft feed, &c, and grass 

in the season. 
Consumption. — Incurable. Give Sulphite of Soda 

to arrest and prevent ferment, and prolong life with 

tonics and stimulant*. 



48 



Contagion. — Prevention : Separate the sick from 
the well. All buckets, &c, used should be thor- 
oughly cleansed and purified with disinfectants. 

Cough.— Cause: Iritation or softening of the par 
vagum nerves; as in heaves, broken wind, tuber- 
cles in the lung, thickening of the lining membrane 
of the bronchii or air passages, and enlargement of 
the glands of the neck. Treatment: Removal of 
the cause. 

Curb.— A disease of the hock-joint, and consists in a 
swelling below it. Apply the Bin. Iodide of Mercu- 
ry ointment. 

Cutting.— See Interfering. 

Cribbing. — This very disagreeable habit or disease, 
is best remedied by regular feeding, and work with 
a muzzle on, and when not at work, with bars 
across the bottom, as described by Jennings. 

Debility.— Sulphate of iron, 2 drachms; Gentian 
root, 2 drachms; Nux vomica (powdered or 
rasped), Ik drachms. Mix and divide in twelve 
doses, and give one, night and morning, to which 
you may throw in a little salt and lime, or soda 
in the place of lime, if lime is not convenient. Allow 
generous diet and good rubbing. 

Deformities.— By good nourishing diet, if the mare 
Fails to give sufficient suck, it disappears generally 
in the colt. 

Diarrhea.— Give laudanum and prepared feed, with 
bran mashes, for a few days. 

Disinfectants. —These are' of two classes— natural 
and artificial: 
Natural Disinfectants. — Air, light, water, heat and 

cold. 
Artificial Disinfectants.— There are too many to 
take up all, so I will mention chloride of lime for 
the stable. It is cheap, efficient and not danger- 
ous, like many other articles. For empty rooms 
chlorine gas is good. 

Distemper.— Use Indigo. Give, of the best Prus- 
sian blue, 1 oz. everyday in food, water or drench. 
Keep bowels open with condition powders. 

Eye, Diseases of the.— Opium will relieve pain, 
and caustic inflamation. Then, when it is your 
purpose to get clear of inflamation, you will bleed in 
the angular vein, at the lower corner of the eye. 



49 

If it be simple iiiflamation, bathe in cold water; if 
purulent, bathe in warm water; then bathe with 
Rowland's Eye Water, composed of two fluid 
drachms Rain water, one fluid drachm Lauda- 
num, and twelve grains Nitrate of Silver. In de- 
bility of optic nerve, use Rowland's Stimulating- 
Eye Ointment, composed of one table spoonful 
each, salt, blick pepper, and butter, to the yolk of 
1 egg. Use it in and over the eye. Where the lachri- 
mal duct, or duct from the eye through the nose is 
obstructed, remedy the obstruction. Apply stim- 
ulating liniments, with good rubbing,below the eye, 
on the side of the face, and use a probe if necessary. 
In all cases, breakout behind the ear with Croton 
Oil, and keep the bowels open. If there be ulcers 
on the conjunctiva membrane, touch with caustic. 
Hooks, or Ixflamatiox of the Hair and Caruncu- 
lar. — Never remove the membrane, as some igno- 
ramuses want to do ; for it is the defence of nature 
against the irritation of foreign matter, insects, &c, 
but subdue tbe inflamation by bleeding, and bath- 
ing with Rowland's Eye Water, and counter irrita- 
tion with Croton Oil, and introduce a seaton behind 
the eye, just below the upper corner. 
Moon-Blixdness, sometimes resulting in Cataract. — 
Have a good Surgeon to operate for Cataract if the 
case requires it, and remove the cause. Sometimes 
it arises from tumors in the cranium ; sometimes 
from an effusion on the membrane of the brain, and 
pressing on the optic nerve, and sometimes from 
a hereditary, flat forehead. Some, and even all of 
these causes, may prove incurable ; but the second 
should be treated with alternative doses of Calomel, 
followed with- Iodide of Potash, together with blis- 
tering as a counter-iritation. The third may some- 
times be remedied by the operation of trephining, 
to relieve the mischievous pressure on the optic 
nerve. 

Farcy. — Contagious. Remove to a roomy stall, apart 
from other animals; feed well; give Sulphite of So- 
da to destroy the ferment in the blood ; give tonics 
and keep bowels open. 

Fistula.— Keep open, and break down the fistulous 
sack, by syringing with Tincture of Iodine, one- 
half table spoonful, once a day, and then treat as 
a common sore, by keeping it clean, &c. 



50 

Foot Diseases — 1st Contraction. -^This is not so 

much u diseaseas it is bad management. Remove 
the cause and lameness will cease. Cut down the 
hoof and sharpen the toe, and allow the foot its 
natural, elastic, expansive spring in the heel at 
each time the horse bears on his foot. 

Corns. — Remove, by cutting out, and apply Sulphur- 
ic Acid. Shoe the horse often, and allow the well 
part of the hoof, only, to bear on the shoe 

Sand Crack. — Apply a red-hot iron, where the hoof 
and hair joins, and burn sufficiently to produce a 
scab; then promote the growth of horn. 

Navaoular Disease. — Incurable, though much may 
be done, to relieve pain, by moisture. 

Seedy Toe, or Split in the Centre of the Foot. — 
Bore a hole with a gimlet or small bit, to the quick, 
or nearly so, at the upper extremity of the crack, 
if it does not extend to the top of the hoof. If it 
extends to the tup of the hoof, burn with a hot iron, 
as in Sand Crack, and in both, use a clamp round 
the fror.t of the foot, made fast by screws. 

Pumiced Sole. — Raise the sole from the ground by a 
thick b 

Tiiusii.— I reventive: Dry stabling. Treatment: 
Force i. few drops of Muriatic Acid in the frog of 
the foot, once a day, and give half an ounce of 
Sulphite of Soda, for a few days. 

Quittor. — Make a free opening from the sole of the 
foot, and inject with a solution of Sulphate of Zinc ; 
or drop ten drops of Muriatic Acid in the opening 
from above, for a few days. 
Founders.— Give one table spoonful of pulverized 
Alum, and if it is in its incipient stage, the horse 
will be ready to do moderate work in six hours; if 
it is too far advanced to yield to one dose, give an- 
other in twelve hours. If the case is so old ami 
stubborn as to resist this, then give Alum one 
day, and something to open the bowels the next, 
and continue thus until a cure is produced, always 
placing the horse in a roomy stall with good bed- 
ding, to induce him to lie down. 
Glanders.— Give tonics to improve the blood, and 
Sulphite of Soda and Spanish Flies, to break down, 
and get rid of the ferment. Glanders, with tuber- 
cles, is incurable. For further particulars, see 
Jennings' and McClure's lecture on Glanders ; also 
both on Farcy. 



51 

Gravel in the Foot.— Probe well, and get out 
all the sand, and fill the hole with spirits turpentine. 

Grease, or Scratches.— Take a box of Concen- 
trated Lye and dissolve it in about two quarts of 
water, and bottle up for use when wanted. Put 
about a wine-glass full of this solution in one cpiart 
of water, and wash and bathe the heels and legs 
well, night and morning, and dry oft', and apply 
white lead, made of convenient consistency for ap- 
plication, by mixing with linseed oil. Attend to 
the bowells, — keep soft, and keep a dry stall. 

Heart J>!sease.— Incurable. 

Heaves. — Treat with arsenic, &c, accrrding to the 
distinguished McClure. 

Hereditary IM§ea§es.— Avoid breeding after dis- 
eased sires and dams. 

Hsde-Uosind.— Feed in large bulk, and give Anti- 
mony, Sulphur, Gentii n, Nitre and i inger every 
night, and blanket well. 

Hooks ixi tiie Eye.— This is a term, in use by 
country people, when referring to the peculiar ac- 
tion or intlamatioa of the hob' membrane or mem- 
brana nictitous, frequently produced bj 7 ' lock jaw. 
Many persons have advised that this should be cut 
out. Nothing could be further wrong than this, for 
it is merely the effect of a cause. Remove the cause 
and subdue inflaination. 

Lampa§§.— Bleed, by pinching or scarrifying the 
bars in the mouth, and rub in a little table salt, 
and open the bowels. 

ILiee. — Take weak sulphur ointment, and commence 
at the animal's head, and apply with a rough brush; 
the next day the neck, and continue thus until you 
have driven them from the animal. 

JLfillg Fever.— Place the horse in a light and airy 
place, and clothe him according to the weather. 
Eandage the legs at all seasons, to keep them 
warm, and thus detract from the pulmonary circu- 
lation. Aconite is our most powerful remedy to 
relieve pain and control the action of the heart. 
Tartar Emetic, so valuable in this disease in man, 
has no effect whatever upon the horse. 

Maggot.— To remove from wound, pour in Spirits of 
Turpentine, or a mixture of Creosote and Olive Oil. 

Mange, Psora or Scrafeie§. — Cause: The result 
of an insect, called acari, breeding and burrowing 
in the skin, a variety of mite or animalcule. It is 



52 

contagions. You must kill the insect or yon wil 
not cure, for which the best plan is to take fine 
sand and rub the part affected for a few minutes, 
to scour the insect out of his covering, or burrow- 
ing, that he may be reached with remedies. Then 
wash the parts well with soap and water, and a 
brush, after which dry carefully : then anoint with 
Sulphur, one ounce, and hog's lard, two ounces, 
mixed. 

Nervousness.— Stuff wool in the ears. 

Ostromaiiia in Mares.— Let her to a good blood- 
ed Bire. 

Phagadena. — This terrible malady frequently or'ur- 
inates from Scratches, sometimes from impure 
blood, sometimes poison salts, and sometimes cold, 
in the way of frost bite. Treatment: The com- 
plete removal of all dead matter, and a thorough 
cleansing of the ulcer; then sprinkle on powdered 
blue stone, to destroy the unhealthy surface, and 
hasten the granulatory process. Complete the 
cure by applying loaf sugar. Support the horse's 
strength with tonics and good diet. 

Rheumatism.— Induce the animal to lie down, and 
give six doses of Aconite tine, four hours apart, 25 
drops at a dose, and blanket well. 

Ring Bone.— Apply Bin. Iodide of Mercury Oint- 
ment to the part. 

Saddle Galls.— Tr. Arnica, or spirits will answer 
the purpose. If the sores have become hard like 
warts, use Bin. Iodide of Mercury Ointment. 

Scratches, Fhagadena^Grease, and Frost 
Bite.— See Grease. 

Scurf. — Good grooming, good feeding, and a change 
of stables. 

Shoulder Lameness.- Apply Bin. Iodide of Mer- 
cury Ointmeut, once a week, and give res;. 

Sitfast.- Apply Bin Iodide of Mercury Ointment. 

Sore Back or Shoulders,— Remove cause by 
re-stuffing saddle and collar. 

Spavin.— A diser.se of the hock joint. 

Coo. or Blood Spavin . —Apply the Bin. Iodide of 
Mercury Ointment once a week, and grease every 
day between the applications. It will return when 
the horse is put to hard work. 
Bone and Occult Spavin.— Treat as in the foregoing. 
Sometimes it may be taken oft* by an operation, 
for which apply to a good Veterinary Surgeon. 



Speedy Cut. — Apply cold water cloths, and if a hard 
knot remains, apply Bin. Iodide of Mercury Oint- 
ment. To prevent, use boots. 

Splint. — When of recent occurrence, use some stimu- 
lating liniment, with goad rubbing with some hard 
substance. If it will not yield, use Bin. Iodide of 
Mercury Ointment. If it still persists, have an op- 
eration performed. 

Sprains.— Give rest and rub with Tincture of Arnica. 

Staggers*.— This nialauy is divided into Stomach 
Stutters, Grass, or Sleepy Staggers and Mad Stag- 
gers. 
Stomach Staggers,— Grass, or Sleepy Staggers is a 
chronic variety of Stomach Staggers, and they should 
be treated alike. Treatment: Bleed in the nose 
and stuff capsicum and salt in the forehead. In- 
jections of warm water and soap, ami a handful of 
salt, to clear the bowels of crude injester and gas. 
Drench the horse with two ounces of Sulphite of 
Soda, once every hour, to arrest fermentation, add- 
ing to each dose one drachm, each, of Black Anti- 
mony and powdered Ipieae. Give 100 grs. Qui- 
nine and one ounce Aloes, once a day. This may 
be added to the other drench. It will cure in two 
days, and relieve in a few hoars. 
Mad Staggers, sometimes called Phrenitis. — Thus 
should always be arrested while in its incipient of 
congestive form, called Sleepy Staggers. Treat- 
ment is the same, except that you cau pour cold 
water from a height on the animal's head, or keep 
chopped up ice to the top of his head. 

Stings of In§ect§.— Rub the parts effected with 
strong vinegar, or Dilute Acetic Acid and powder- 
ed Camphor. All trouble is at once ended. In an 
hour or two grease the parts with lard or oil. 

Striiigliaft.— Give one gr. Strychnine every day. for 
six weeks, and use Bin. Iodide of Mercury Ointment 
on the bock and pastern joint, once a week, &c. 

Sweenfe, or Atroply in Shoulder.— Remove 
cause (lameness in foot or leg), and the effects will 
pass away. Never operate, or allow it done. 

Thorough Pin.— See Bog, or Blood Spavin. 

Thumps,- Give tonics, and use moderately. 

Ulcer§. — In cases of Healthy Ulcers, nature is far 
superior to art. All that can be done is to keep 
down proud flesh with Chloride of Zinc. Bluestone, 
or the like. 



54 

Unhealthy Ulcers. — Eat ; off the unhealthy surface 
with Bluestone, Burnt Alum, or tlm like, and poul- 
tice at night with aotiie soft, warm substance. Feed 
well, and give Sulphite of S6da. 

"Wind <* all.— Cold aud compression. See Bog and 
Blood Spavin. 

Worms.— -Under this heading we will include the va- 
rious Bots. Give Sulphate of Iron and Gentian, 
each two drachms; Arsenic, live grs. ; mix and 
giye two or three times a week. In an attack of 
what is commonly known and called Grubs, take 
of new milk and molasses each one quart, make 
two drenches, and give a half hour apart, and in 
one and a half hours, drench with the following: 
Three pods of red pepper, two leaves of tobacco, 
and a handful of sage, in a half gallon of water; 
boil to one quart, to which you will add one-half 
ounce of Spirits Turpentine, and one-fouth ounce 
Laudanum; then dissolve one lb salt, and drench. 

Wind Sucking.— This closely resembles Cribbing, 
and the only remedies are tying up the head, or 
putting on a muzzle, with sharp spikes pointing 
toward the neck to prick him when he reins his 
head in to suck wind. 



HOW TO TELL THE AGE OF A HOUSE. 



As a matter of prudence and economy, it is necessa- 
ry for the purchaser to be able to judge correctly of the 
horse's age. This is acquired by observing the changes 
in his teeth — their first appearance — being shed and re- 
placed — their alterations in form, and their marks. The 
teeth of most animals oiler some criterion by which we 
can judge of their age. The horse possesses forty teeth 
when full-mouthed. Those in the front of the mouth, 
from their use, are termed incisors or nippers, &nd are 
twelve in number — six above and six below. They are 
usually arranged in pairs, as they appear. The first 
pair is called central, the second, dividers, and the 
third, the corner nippers. 

The horse, like most other animals, is provided with 
two sets of teeth ; the first known as temporary, decid- 
uous, or milk teeth ; and the. second set, or those suc- 
ceeding the first, as the permanent set. 



DO 

The teeth of the horse are being constantly worn 
away at the crown, by mastication, and the loss as con- 
stantly supplied by the growth of the root. 

We will next notice the first appearance of the teeth 
in the foal, ami follow up their changes and marks. 

Seven months prior to the foal being born, the germ s 
of the teeth may be seen in the cavities of the jaws. At 
the time of birth, the first and second grinders have ap- 
peared. In seven or eight days, the first nippers are 
seen. In five or six weeks, the dividers are.-een. At 
two months, the front nippers are atitheir height and 
size, and in two or three weeks more the second pair 
wiil get their size. They are said to be three mont hs 
old, when the dividers are level with tne front nippers. 
There is no other change (more than the wearing of t\\e 
teeth), until about the eighth month, when the corner 
teeth make their appearance, which completes the 
colt's mouth; after which, there is no other observable 
change in the teeth, except the wear and tear, until just 
before three years old, when shedding takes place. At 
twelve months old, the front nippers and dividers are 
worn almost level, and the comer teeth becoming so. 
The mark in the first pair of nippers is wide and faint; 
in the next two, it is longer, darker, and narrower; and 
in the third pair, or corner ones, it is longest, darkest, 
and most narrow. At the end of the first year, a fourth 
grinder makes its appearance. 

At one year and a half, the mark in the central nip- 
pers will be shorter and fainter; while it will have un- 
dergone an evident change in the other two pair, and 
all will be flat. At two years, all those signs will be 
more manifest, and a fift grinder appears. 

Soon the second set begin to push up from below, 
and. by pressure, produce absorption of the fangs of 
the temporary ones, and cause them to drop out. Gen- 
erally the front pair drops about the thirty-second 
month. 

At three years old, the colt has its permanent center nip- 
pers, nearly or quite level with the temporary dividers. 
In the second pair of nippers or dividers, the mark is 
nearly worn out, and wearing in the corner nippers, 
with six grinders in each jaw. At three and a half years, 
the second pair of grinders are shed ; and a little later, 
the dividers drop, and at four, they are nearly level with 
the sharp edges. The sharp edge, in the front nippers, 
will be somewhat worn ofl, consequently the mark is 
diminished. The marks in the corner nippers are nearly 



56 

effaced. At four and a half years the colt sheds his 
corner teeth, and the lower tusks make their appear- 
ance. At five the upper tusks are through, and Che 
corner teeth are level with the dividers, and the horse 
has a complete mouth. The corner teeth are merely 
an outside shell, i. e., the edge on the outside of the 
tooth is level and to a sharp edge, while the inside has 
hartliy left the sum. which rises, gradually, to a level 
by six. and is also sharp, while the outer edge is worn 
some. At seven, the tooth is considerably worn, and the 
cavity, or mark in the corner teeth, is about pea size 
andsbape. At eight you see what is called, smooth- 
below. At nine the upper front nippers become smooth ; 
at ten, the dividers. At eleven the corner ones are 
smooth; at eleven the two center and dividers, below, 
are smooth ; the point of the tusks are rounded at the 
points, rounded at the edges, and being rounded on 
the inside. At eight years the tusks are rounded in 
every way. At nine the bars of the mouth become less 
prominent, and diminish through life. 

At ten years old, the beautiful, square apperance of 
the gums"on the front teeth, begins to change and show 
age, by going one side at a time, or in a year. This 
commences at ten, on center nippers, and comes to a 
rounded point at fourteen years. This is called jock- 
ey's goard-seed on nippers, or front teeth. 

The dividers have the gum to commence going up on 
them, in like manner, at twelve, and go to a like round- 
ed point at seventeen. The corner teeth commence at 
fourteen, and end at twenty-one. 

Count the wrinkles on the upper lip; it gives the 
number of years. Count the wrinkles on the lower eye- 
lid, and add to nine; it gives the age. 

At twelve years old, a white spot appears in the nose, 
near where the integument aud lining of the nose 
unites. At thirteen it is nearly as large as a half pea. At 
fourteen it begins to point out, somewhat, like a star. 

The jaw-bone of a young horse Is round, while that 
of an old one is sharp on the lower edge. 



